The stinkiest old street in Taiwan

Stinky tofu — a divisive topic for many. It’s a food thats pungent odor makes some salivate, and others, well…gag. If you’re one of the latter, you should probably stay far away from this charming old block which is filled to the brim with local vendors dishing out all different varieties of this local treat. Me however? I belong to the former, and I spent a day sampling plate after plate of pungent, smelly tofu.

What exactly is stinky tofu?

In a basic sense, it’s just fermented tofu, however what gives each vendor their special flavor is the soup they ferment it in. Things such as milk, meat, and vegetables can all be used in different amounts to create a top-secret smelly stew for the tofu to soak in for weeks, maybe even up to a month. By the time it’s ready to eat, you’ll have a smell that some liken to smelly socks, trash, or blue cheese. I think these comparisons are a bit harsh though — I wouldn’t liken it to anything other than stinky tofu.

Shenkeng is the most well-known place for stinky tofu in Taiwan. The area is actually a dedicated “old street”, or laojie. These are spaces all over Taiwan which have been restored to look like the olden days. You can get a glimpse of what Taiwanese streets looked like before its globalization, as well as a taste of many traditional snacks. Lots of shops also sell traditional handicrafts as well, like woodwork and spinning tops.

Stinky tofu is one of Taiwan’s most beloved national snacks. The amount of vendors and methods of preparation are endless. The two most popular ways to eat it are stewed in a Sichuan broth or deep-fried and crispy. More creative options exist though, such as barbequed stinky tofu kebabs, stinky tofu fries, or steamed tofu. Luckily, you can sample every kind under the sun at Shenkeng Old Street.

Stewed stinky tofu

My first stop was Wang Shui Cheng. This is one of the mainstays of Shenkeng, and my favorite mala (sichuan peppercorn) stewed tofu for years. The broth is sweet and savory, like a vegetable broth but has a subtle kick of numbing spice underneath. The tofu is delicate, and the air pockets inside just suck up all that delicious sauce. A few vegetables are placed on top which have also been stewed in that magic soup! If you can only eat one thing during your visit — this should be it.

Tofu ice cream

As well as your everyday stinky tofu varieties, Shenkeng has also got a few novelty creations. Gotta use up all that tofu somehow! I stopped by a stand plainly named “Shengkeng Tofu Ice Cream” and went for the plain tofu flavored ice cream. In all honesty, it just tasted like frozen soy milk. Unless you have a strange hankering for frozen bean cream, I’d just skip this.

Barbecued stinky tofu

Next on my list was barbecued stinky tofu. These are slabs of tofu on a stick, grilled over charcoal, then brushed with Taiwanese barbecue sauce and topped with a light kimchi. I headed for the place with the longest line, which was called 廟邊 (Next to the temple). The tofu was average tasting, not so stinky, but what made it was the myriad of sauce and toppings. Salty, hearty barbecue sauce and light, sour kimchi really brought the whole thing together. There’s no seating area, but it’s a great snack to eat while walking around and taking in the architecture.

Almond Tea

With all that tofu built up in my stomach, I needed something to wash it down. I had a cup of super-sweet and fragrant almond tea. Rather than being like almond milk, this is very rich. Almost like drinking a desert.

Tofu Mochi

You are probably more accustomed to Japanese mochi, which is very sweet and perhaps a bit more ice-cream textured. Chinese mochi is less sweet, but very sticky and very chewy. To get sweetness, different seasonings are placed on top like peanuts or ground sesame. It’s a good thing they gave me a huge bag of black sesame, because otherwise this would have tasted like eating globs of nothing. Skip!

Fried stinky tofu

One of the most ubiquitous forms of stinky tofu, this version is deep fried in oil to create a super-crispy coating around the outside. It tastes best stuffed with Taiwanese kimchi and dipped in chili sauce. To most Taiwanese, the crispier it is, the better. I disagree with this though. To me, the more it’s fried the more flavor leaves the tofu. However what’s lost in flavor can be made up through texturing. A crunchy outside shell, soft melty tofu inside, cut through with a kick of sour kimchi and dab of spicy sauce. Because I was way too full, I opted to grab a plate at my local night market later.

Special guest appearance: Chicken butt!

Guess what? Chicken butt. Is delicious. Or as some like to call it, the pope’s nose. At barbecue stands all over Taiwan you can grab this chewy, meaty, cartilage-filled snack. Chicken butts are skewered onto spears and cooked over coals until they get a beautiful, seared coating on the outside and the meat inside becomes tender and juicy. I headed to the place with the longest line, named 芭樂橋 （Guava bridge) and waited for my stick of juicy chicken butts on a stick.

My take

Shenkeng is an excellent place to go to try out all of the well-known favorites like fried and stewed stinky tofu. These guys have been doing it for years and know how to make a mean plate of stinky things. Skip the novelties and save room for what’s tested and true, and you won’t regret it. Happy eating!